What’s the Average Cost of an ATV Repair? DIY vs. the Shop?

Repairs are a reality of owning an ATV at some point, especially if you enjoy riding frequently, and when it comes time to do those repairs, you can do two things. You can either take your ATV to the shop and have your problems handled for you or do it yourself. But which one is the better option overall?

Learning how to do repairs yourself will be more cost-effective. When taking your ATV to the shop, you are paying for the labor of someone else fixing your machine. It makes sense to at least learn how to repair simple issues at home for significant cost savings.

We will be going over the cost differences between DIY and mechanic repairs and explaining how to fix common repairs. If you would like to learn more, we encourage you to read on!

Knowing Your Machine 

There is a saying that time is money, and it isn’t entirely wrong. Finding the perfect balance of cost savings while not losing too much time is something not many people think about. 

Oftentimes people tip to one extreme or the other. On one side, you have the people who take their machine to a mechanic over the slightest issue while the other insists that you should know how to do everything. 

There isn’t necessarily anything wrong with either side to an extent, but we think for most people incorporating a little bit of both mindsets is healthy. An ATV is a complex feat of engineering with a lot going on at once, and if one thing fails, you are likely going to end up with something non-functional, barely functional, or cause long-term damage. 

Because of this, we strongly recommend that folks have an understanding of common ATV repairs or maintenance procedures rather than completely relying on a service. Of course, we aren’t saying you should never go to a mechanic, but there are certain repairs that most people can do cheaply without much time or effort as long as you have a manual and the proper tools. 

Now, of course, you shouldn’t attempt something you aren’t comfortable with as that can spell trouble. It’s always worth it, in the end, to let a professional handle more intermediate/advanced repairs if that’s what you feel you need. 

Two Key Repairs/Maintenance Procedures Everyone Should Know

Below we will be going over the easiest repairs for the average person to do and compare the cost of doing it yourself versus having a mechanic do it for you. Some of these are part of an overall tune-up session, so don’t be afraid to let a shop handle the ATV equivalent of a check-up if you feel that it will be too time-consuming for you. 

Air Filter Change

With how often ATVs get dirty due to the environment they are in, you will need to change the air filter. This is both the least expensive and easiest ATV maintenance you’ll do besides washing it. 

The air filter is a simple but crucial aspect of your ATV. It is what keeps dirt and debris from clogging up your engine, allowing it to perform at its best. Dirty air will not only hamper performance, but it will also cause wear and tear on the engine, which you absolutely do not want considering just how expensive an engine repair can be. 

How often you need to clean/change the air filter will be dependent on what kind of riding you are doing. If you are getting dirt/mud all over the ATV, the chances are that the air filter is dirty and needs to be cleaned. While it is a blast to get dirty, which is one of the things great about riding, this will rapidly diminish the quad’s lifespan if neglected.

Do yourself a huge favor, ensure you are regularly inspecting and changing/cleaning your ATV’s air filter. You can buy pleated paper filters from anywhere between $10 – $25. Replacing the filter at a shop is typically part of a full-service tune-up, which can be anywhere from $100 – $400 depending on how much is being done. 

Keep in mind you don’t have to swap out the filter every time you check on it. You should be able to clean it at least a few times until it becomes permanently stained and dirty. We recommend staying stocked up on air filters if you can so you are ready to go for your next ride. 

So, how do you change the air filter yourself? It’s quite easy, actually!

  1. Lift the seat. Typically, the air filter is located below the seat, and spotting it is as simple as lifting it and checking underneath for the filter housing. Once you’ve located that, remove the bolts and lift the filter out.
  2. Clean the filter. You can skip this step if you need to do a replacement. There are two effective ways to clean an air filter. You can either put it in your dishwasher on the hottest setting or put it in your washing machine – also on the hottest setting. After it is cleaned, you can then put it in the dryer. 
  3. Apply air filter oil. This will help air pass through all that dirt you’ll be kicking up. The oil clings to the filter, and the debris will stick to that oil rather than the air filter itself. You’ll want to make sure that you are spraying the entire thing thoroughly. You can buy K&N Air Filter Cleaning Kit on Amazon.
  4. Stick the air filter back in. After you are done, you are ready to put the filter back where you found it and secure the bolts. 

As you can see, it’s quite a simple process relatively speaking and is one of the most important regular maintenance tasks you’ll be doing-especially if you love to get dirty. If you have ever wondered why your ATV isn’t kicking as it used to when you twist the throttle, a filthy air filter might be the cause. 

Oil Change

You hear all the time that changing a vehicle’s oils is a crucial part of maintaining it, and for a good reason. If you’ve ever heard the phrase “a well-oiled machine,” that’s exactly what fresh oil does for an engine. It ensures that the motor’s moving parts are properly lubricated, allowing them to move freely without resistance. 

Old oil causes what is known as engine sludge and blocks the flow of oil. An engine that isn’t properly lubricated is prone to overheating and warping, which means expensive damages down the line if it is continued to be neglected. 

Changing the oil is a less complicated and messy procedure than it is with a car. Given its size, an ATV doesn’t hold as much oil as a car, which has a full gallon of dirty oil draining out when doing an oil change job. On the other hand, an ATV only holds about a quart, making the disposing situation easier, and if you do end up making a mess, it’s not nearly as bad. 

For this reason, we recommend just doing it yourself if you can. The process overall should take about 20 minutes or so once you get used to it.

As far as cost goes, you can expect to pay $30 to buy a gallon of oil and $7 for an oil filter. A shop oil change is usually $50. You can do up to 4 oil changes depending on your ATV’s size for the cost of one shop oil change. Going back to the shop 4 times can cost you up to $200 – that’s quite the difference!

Here’s how you can change your ATV’s oil:

  1. Run the engine.  The first step you’ll want to do is run the engine. This will get the oil warm/hot allowing it to flow much easier out of the engine. It should take about 10 minutes for the oil to rise in temperature.
  2. Remove the oil filter. ATV’s can differ, so check the manual if you aren’t sure where you can access the oil filter. In most cases, you’ll have to remove the seat, pull the latch, snap off the panel on the right side, and remove the bolts to loosen the cover. After the cover has been removed, you’ll see the dipstick and oil filter. 
  3. Clean the dipstick and around the opening. Clearing out as much of the old oil as possible will help keep both debris and the bad oil from getting into the engine. 
  4. Drain the oil. You’ll want to wear gloves for this part, specifically safety gloves if you have them, but rubber gloves work too. The oil will be quite warm if not hot, and you don’t want that getting on your bare skin. Consult your manual to find the drain plug, place your drain pan under it, and loosen the plug with a socket to allow the oil to fall out. Remove the oil filter when all the old oil has expelled.
  5. Add the new oil. Put the drain plug back where it was and tighten it enough to secure but not overly so. Next, take the new filter and add oil to the O-ring, and place and screw it in, ensuring it is tight enough with a wrench. Place the oil funnel on the new filter and pour the amount of oil that your ATV can hold – remember, consult the manual if you don’t know! 
  6. Put everything back. Now it’s just a matter of reversing what you have done by putting the cover, panel, and seat back where they were.

Don’t forget to dispose of the oil properly. People who attempt to do an oil change for their car oftentimes have a tough time with this part, and it’s no wonder why. For one, it is straight-up illegal to dispose of used motor oil correctly because it clings to everything it touches and can contaminate water – this means pouring it down drains and tossing it into a body of water is a no-go.

Luckily, you don’t have as much oil on your hands with an ATV after the job is done, and like with used oil from a car, you can properly recycle your ATV’s oil. If you were using a drain pan, you might be able to close it to contain the oil for easy transportation – if not, you can either pour it back into the original container it came in or a suitable plastic container. 

One important factor to note is that motor oil that has been mixed with other fluids is not recyclable, so ensure it is nothing but pure oil. If all is good, you can simply hand it off to your nearest AutoZone or other similar shops. 

Wrapping Things Up

These, in our opinion, are the most important things for an ATV owner to know how to do themselves. Just being able to do these 2 maintenance procedures alone puts you at a significant advantage when it comes to keeping your ATV running well. In fact, just knowing that these things have to be done is great in general – there are too many examples of heavily used ATVs in bad shape due to them being poorly maintained.

If you would like to learn more about how to keep your ATV running well, keep on reading to learn more!

Should You Do a Tune-Up Yourself?

You might be wondering at what point is it a good idea to let a professional handle repairs. For starters, if you are buying a used ATV, it is probably a good idea to give it a tune-up. What does this include? Quite a bit! 

  • Cleaning and lubing ATV Chain
  • Checking and replacing spark plugs
  • Flushing cooling system
  • Checking and replacing oil silencer if needed
  • Checking and adjusting the valves
  • Flushing braking systems
  • Oil checking and replacing the old oil for new oil
  • Inspecting and adjusting the cables and lubes
  • Cleaning or replacing a dirty oil filter 
  • Inspecting the ATV to look for anything wrong
  • Adjusting the optimal air-pressure for the tires
  • Checking and adjusting compression levels

If you consider ATV repairs a hobby in and of itself, you’ll have a blast learning how to repair the many aspects of these wonderful machines. However, this definitely isn’t for everyone – most people want an ATV to ride and not spend hours learning everything and even more hours doing all of these things hands-on.

As we mentioned earlier, a tune-up will run you anywhere from $100 – $400, depending on how many of these steps are being done. Of course, a professional will know how to efficiently get your ATV running its best while you won’t have to lift a finger. You also have to consider that you didn’t have to buy any replacement items. Overall, there are certain things that are just best left to the pros for most people.

You could save upwards of $250 – $300 doing a full tune-up on an ATV yourself, but if you aren’t confident or don’t feel like it, there is absolutely no shame in bringing it into the shop. In fact, if you snagged yourself a used ATV at a good price, even $400 for a full tune-up to ensure it runs perfectly can be a steal.

Changing Your Tires  

Like cars, ATVs need tire changes at some point, which means that tire replacement costs need to be factored in. When you have to change your tires is dependent on where you are riding, how you are riding, and what type of tires you have. 

If you are riding off-road like many, if not most people do, you’ll get quite a bit of life out of your ATV’s tires. This is due to the very nature of off-road tires. Big treads mean less rubber touching the ground, and softer terrain means less wear. Riding around on the road eats tires because of that continuous contact with such a hard surface. 

If you keep your ATV strictly off-road, you can expect to get anywhere between 5 -10 years when riding off-road and 1-2 years on-road. 

When it is time to swap your ATV’s tires, how much will this cost, and is it worth just doing it yourself? In truth, it might be best just to take it to the shop, depending on how much they are charging. Of course, you’ll have to buy your own tires, which can be anywhere from $50 – $450 per wheel depending on exactly what kind of tire it is and the quality level. All-terrain and mud tires are the least expensive while hard, or Rock Crawler and Sand tires cost the most. 

When it comes to mounting the ATV tires, your local shop can shoot you a rate anywhere from $5-$25 per tire. It’s good to call around to see if you can get a low price before deciding. 

Again, whether or not you want to change the tires will depend on if you even want to do it in the first place. DIY tire repairs can be done, but they aren’t entirely risk-free, and you can be doing some damage if things don’t go well. Why is this? It’s mainly due to how ATV tires are fitted onto the wheels. 

Why Is It Challenging to Change an ATV Tire?

The main challenge of changing a tire is caused by what is known as “the bead.”

Inside the rim, there is a bump; this bump is known as the “bead retainer.” On the flipside, tires have a “tire bead” that includes a steel cable that goes around the tire’s entire loop. 

The purpose of these mechanics is to prevent the tire from sliding around when riding. Many people do hard riding where they are sliding around, hitting bumps, and doing jumps – mostly apparent in sport ATVs, but stability is key for off-roading in general. 

This bead mechanic is great for riding, but unfortunately, it makes DIY repairs a challenge. The main hurdle separating the tire from the rim in general, otherwise known as “breaking the bead.” Tire shops have expensive tire changing machines that can efficiently swap out tires, but the average ATV owner is highly unlikely to have this in their garage, leaving them with more…brutal options. 

First off, if you are doing a DIY tire change, we can only recommend using a Bead Buster for the job. It is the least likely to cause damages; unfortunately, it is not the cheapest of tools. This BeadBuster, for example, is over $100, which can potentially be a more expensive way to change your tire rather than having a shop do it for you. 

It’s going to be up to you on what route you want to take. Considering tires can last a considerable amount of time and most professional tire changes aren’t too costly – we would say that the DIY option is recommended for most people. 

Don’t forget you’ll also invest in a tire jack to lift the ATV up to make changing the tire possible, which can also run you over $100. 

If you would like to know the step by step process of changing your ATVs tires, we will break down how it would be done. 

How to Change an ATV Tire

Your biggest obstacle will be taking the old tire off of the wheel and putting the new one on. Past that, it is a relatively easy process as long as you have the proper tools on hand. 

  1. Jack up the ATV.  On level ground, use a jack to lift up the ATV, securing it with jack stands. 
  2. Remove the wheels. With a 4-way lug wrench, separate the wheels from the ATV.
  3. Break the bead. This is either a painful process or an easy one depending on what tool you are using. If you are using a Bead Buster, it will break the tire bead allowing the tire to be removed with a tire iron. 
  4. Remove the tire. Using 2 tire irons with protective plastic, wedge the first tire iron between the wheel and tire, lifting the tire over the wheel lip. Doing the same with the second tire iron, continue going around the wheel, lifting the tire over the wheel lip. You should be able to separate the tire from the wheel after this easily. 
  5. Clean the wheel lip. Wash off any debris, dirt, sand, etc. To get a good cleaning, you can use a wire brush for any dirt that refuses to come off. If there is any rust, it’ll have to be removed with either a wire brush or a flathead screwdriver. Ensure you are getting both sides of the rim around the entire perimeter of the wheel. 
  6. Lube the rim and new tire. This will help the tire slide onto the rim. You can use soap and water on the bead retailer but don’t use WD-40 as it can cause damage to the tire’s rubber. 
  7. Mount the new tire on the wheel. This can also be tricky since you’ll have to ensure the tire is locked in place with the bead correctly. Ensuring the tire is in the correct orientation and the wheel is flat on the ground, place the tire on top of the wheel and push down on both sides. The tire should slip onto the first bead. You may need to use a tire iron if you can’t get it on by hand. 
  8. Work on the second bead.  Step on the tire by the valve to start moving into place and work your way around the wheel. Once everything is in place, lock it in with a tire iron. 
  9. Inflate the tire.  Use a ratchet strap around the tire’s circumference, stand the tire up, and tighten the strap until the tire touches the lip of the rim. Now that the tire is ready to be inflated connect the inflator to the tire valve and inflate until it reaches 7-8 PSI.
  10. Mount the wheel onto the ATV. Lastly, mount the tire back, reversing the process of what you did when you removed it. 

In general, it’s not too bad of a project, although if you are doing this for the first time, you might come across frustrations and spend a lot of time ensuring everything is going well.

If you don’t want to do this, bring it to a shop, and you’ll have a new pair of tires without having to do anything. Like we stated previously, you don’t have to do something you aren’t confident about. 

Conclusion

You are likely to save money in the long run by doing repairs and maintenance procedures yourself, and there are certain basic things that everyone should know how to do, such as changing the oil and air filter.

 However, mechanics exist because not everyone is comfortable doing many of the repairs that an ATV requires and so bringing it to the shop is the best option. This is especially so if you need to do a full inspection and tune-up for a used/old ATV, there is a lot that might need to be done in this case and an inexperienced DIYer will have a lot on their hands.

4-Stroke Bike Maintenance: A Complete Guide

Over the years 4-stroke dirt bikes have improved thanks to technological advancements. There have been power increases, weight decreases, and the performance of 4-stroke engines have become a lot more efficient. Nonetheless, these types of bikes require maintenance, and while maintaining a 4-stroke isn’t as intensive as a 2-stroke, you’ll still want to make sure you know what needs to be done.

4-stroke Dirt Bike Maintenance: 

  • Wash, Dry Inspect, Tighten and lube bike (Every ride)
  • Oil change (4-6 hrs)
  • Replace Oil Filter (6-10 hrs)
  • Clean, Check, Replace, and Oil the Air Filter (Every ride or 3Hrs)
  • Replace Brake Fluid ( 20-40 hrs) 
  • Replace Pads (0.04 in-1.00mm)
  • Check Calipers and Rotors (Regularly)
  • Check Coolants (Every ride, change yearly)
  • Check Tire Pressure, Valve stems (Every ride)
  • Check Tire and wheel Condition (10k, lube every 6 months)
  • Check for Engine, Brakes, etc… for leaks (Every ride)  
  • Check Chain tension and Sprockets (Every ride) 
  • Check Control Cables (Regularly)
  • Change the Piston and Rings (Every 30-100 hours) 
  • Check Suspension/Steering (Regularly)

Make note that the maintenance of a 4-stroke dirt bike is different from that of a 2-stroke as the engines are different.

Read on to learn more about the difference between 2-stroke and 4-stroke, the importance of creating a maintenance schedule, and tips on maintaining a 4-stroke dirt bike.

How Does a 4-Stroke Engine Dirt Bike Work? 

A 4-stroke engine consists of four functions, which include exhaust, combustion, compression, and intake. This type of engine is more complex than that of a 2-stroke engine. That’s because a 4-stroke engine power is fired every two revolutions of the crankshaft, something that allows for steady power delivery.

Also, the 4-stroke engines feature a smooth powerband that makes handling easier. It’s the reason why dirt bikes with this type of engine are preferred for beginners. They require little effort to ride. The 4-stroke dirt bikes have more moving parts, and there’s controlled engine power, which means you don’t need to worry about shifting, clutching, or the brakes.

Another reason why 4-stroke dirt bikes are preferred is that they require less maintenance than 2-stroke bikes. You can comfortably use these bikes for trail riding. Nonetheless, having too many moving parts also means the bike becomes heavier than that of a 2-stroke engine. You may also need to account for the replacement of the moving parts.

4-stroke dirt bikes have more power down low. Users of the 4-stroke dirt bikes prefer them because they are easy to maneuver, control, and ride.

Differences Between 2-Stroke and 4-Stroke Dirt Bikes

Some of the major differences between the two include:

Power

Modern 4-Stroke dirt bikes have an excellent power performance due to the different advanced versions of the engines. 2-stroke dirt bikes, on the other hand, have a high power performance, but this can be difficult to control when trail riding or controlling the bike on rough terrain. The best part is that a 4-stroke bike has better power handling as power management is better than that of a 2-stroke.

Handling

Another difference between the 2-stroke and 4-stroke engine is the handling. Four-stroke engines are heavy as they have multiple moving parts. The result is challenging handling. However, two-stroke engines have fewer parts, something that makes them lighter and easier to handle. The good thing is that adding suspension can reduce handling problems in a 4-stroke dirt bike.

Operation

Another difference between the 2-stroke and 4-stroke is in the operation. A two-stroke engine has oil mixed with fuel inside. The combination goes through a combustion cycle where it burns up and leaves through the exhaust pipe. There are some 2-stroke engines with an oil injection system that adds oil into the carburetor.

2-stroke engine oil is refined as it needs to mix well with the fuel and burn in the combustion chamber. These oils are thinner and have specific additives. You can find 2-stroke engine oils made from synthetic, conventional, or castor oil.

The 4-stroke engine has a separate chamber for the fuel. There is a pump that circulates the fuel through the engine, while the filter removes unwanted particles. The process repeats, and although the oil can be recycled, it’s best to change it after some time to avoid contaminant buildup.

Four-stroke engine oil isn’t as refined due to the circulation system. Nonetheless, additives may be added. Viscosity plays a critical role in how the engines function. 

Repair

2-stroke engines have less moving parts, hence less repair and costs to rebuild. A 4-stroke engine consists of multiple moving components, which means you may have different parts to repair. That makes it costly to rebuild this type of engine.

Maintenance

Another difference between the two engines is in the maintenance. Like repair, maintaining a 2-stroke is easier because of the few moving parts. A 4-stroke bike will need more maintenance as there are a lot of parts involved. 

The Pros and Cons of 4-Stroke Dirt Bikes

Pros

  • They are fuel-efficient
  • Only gasoline required to fill up
  • Durable with proper maintenance

 Cons

  • More maintenance is required
  • Predictable power delivery
  • Can be extremely loud
  • Heavier due to the many moving parts

Change the Oil Regularly

A 4-stroke dirt bike has so many moving parts, which is why you need to change the oil regularly and lubricate these parts to ensure longevity and guarantee performance. Failure to change the oil means you may be unable to race or ride because your bike needs an engine rebuild.

How often should you change the engine oil for your 4-stroke dirt bike? The recommended time frame is five to ten hours. However, this depends on the times you race. It’s also best to buy stainless steel reusable filters as they only require cleaning using a contact cleaner when changing the oil.

When cleaning the oil filter:

  1. Spray every part with a contact cleaner to remove all the debris.
  2. Focus on the edges and the corners where dirt hides.
  3. Allow the filter to dry before putting it back inside.

You should start by reading the owner’s manual for the process of changing oil and get your model of bike. Modern 4-stroke bikes have a single oil compartment, while others have two-one for engine oil and the other for transmission. Checking the oil filler caps will tell you how many compartments your bike has.

If you are forgetful, simply write down the time you last changed the oil and remember to clean the air filters each time. That will ensure you never have to deal with engine failure.

What’s more, when dealing with a 4-stroke dirt bike, you need to change the oil filter. If you are using the stainless steel filter, you only need to clean it every time you change the oil. However, when using the disposable filter, you need to change it each time you do the oil.

What Happens to a 4-Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Without Oil?

Engine oil is what lubricates the metal parts in the engine. Lack of proper lubrication means that these parts will rub against each other at high temperatures. The result is premature wear and, finally, a damaged engine. You may need to replace most of the engine metal components, which is expensive.

How to Change Oil in a 4-Stroke Dirt Bike

Here are the steps to follow:

  1. Take the bike for a ride until the engine oil is warm. Doing this helps the used oil drain better.
  2. Put an oil pan under the bike’s bottom and remove the oil filter cap on the bike’s side. Unscrew the drain bolt on the bottom of the dirt bike. You’ll start seeing oil pouring out. At this point, shake the bike from side to side to ensure you get everything out.
  3. Remove the oil filter cover. Take the filter out and place a new filter, ensuring you cover it with some oil for a good seal.
  4. Use a contact cleaner to remove any particles and hunk on the filter cap that could block oil flow. Fit the cover in place, but avoid over-tightening the bolts. Check the rubber o-rings to see if they are loose or worn out. You’ll need to replace them if they are old and don’t fit properly.
  5. Tighten the drain bolt and add fresh oil. Use a funnel to avoid creating a mess and ensure you put the recommended amount from your user manual. Some bikes have this written on the engine casing.
  6. Clean the oil filler cap and put it tightly.

Tips on the Type of Oil to Use in a 4-Stroke Dirt Bike

The kind of oil you put depends on the bike’s brand and model. All this information is available on the user manual, but here are some tips that you should consider:

  • Don’t go for the cheapest oil in the market. Instead, opt for high-performance oil. Although it may be costly, it will keep your engine running smoothly.
  • The type of oil to choose also depends on API classification and viscosity. The thickness of the engine level is the viscosity.
  • Some engine oils are best for cold weather, while others work for warm weather.
  • Another factor to consider is the API classification.
  • Find an oil with a classification of SG or higher, apart from oils labeled as resource-conserving or energy-conserving on the label.
  • Most dirt bikes will use engine oils rated equally in performance to SJ.
  • You should stick to the name-brand dirt bike oil if you are unsure of what engine oil to get.

Be Careful About the Coolant

4-stroke dirt bikes are more involved as they have multiple moving parts. These parts can overheat and affect you on the track. Unfortunately, you can’t just add coolant and forget about it.

The 4-stroke coolant is designed to lower the engine temperature drastically and keep the engine parts from breaking down and overheating. You need to change the coolant regularly if you ride a lot or go to the sand dunes. 

Check the Tire Pressure

Another essential aspect of a 4-stroke dirt bike maintenance is tire pressure. You need to check the tire pressure in between each ride. Begin by checking the tread and any signs of visual damage like flat spots or cracks. Inspect the tires for any stuck objects in the tire like glass pieces or nails that could damage your tires.

Most riders get a range of 10,000 miles with a pair of tires. Nonetheless, this is dependent on how you ride the dirt bike and the type of bike you have. The front tires last longer than the rear ones.

It’s also critical to check the tire pressure of your dirt bike tires, especially if you are taking long rides. That helps to prevent wear and tear.

  • The best way to check tire pressure is to use a tire pressure gauge. There is an electric pressure gauge that checks the tire pressure in a minute or less. Experts recommend checking the pressure on cold tires before you ride and not after. 
  • Check the pressure of the tires often when they are new. Afterward, you can extend the pressure check intervals.
  • The recommended dirt bike tire air pressure is between 10-21 psi. You’ll need to read your user manual to know the pressure your bike needs. You can adjust tire pressure down or up to get the right traction on the terrain you’ll be racing or riding on.
  • Tires that are soft feel spongy and roll on the rim, while tires that are too hard means less grip.

All of these could affect your performance. Incorrect tire pressure could lead to uneven tire wear, tube/tire failure, punctures, and sometimes the tire may come off the bead.

Check the Valve Stem

After checking the tire pressure, you need to check the valve stem:

  • Air leaks often happen in the valve system as opposed to tire punctures or holes in the tube.
  • The valve can have dirt and debris that creates gaps in the seal.
  • When checking the valve stem, ensure the caps are on and tightened.
  • If your stem has spun, you need to deflate the tire and reset it.

Check Tire Tread, Spokes, and Rim Locks

The next step is to check the tire tread. Most traction is from the knobs that get into the terrain, instead of friction between the pavement and rubber when riding, Check between the knobs for cuts and cracks in the tire as this could affect traction.

The tire spokes and rim locks are an essential part of the tires. They need to be tight in place and straight. Find out if the rim locks are fastened.

Sometimes you may need to replace the tires. A few signs you may need to replace tires include: cracked tires, rounded knobs. discolored tires, missing or torn knobs, and tires that are more than a year old.

If it’s time to replace a tire, it’s recommended to replace both tires even if one looks better than the other. Overall, tire pressure is about experimenting. Begin with 12 psi and go down or up with the tips.

Check for Leaks

When your engine is clean, you can quickly spot oil and air leaks. You’ll notice oily drips or marks on the floor. Other signs include sooty marks on the exhaust and cylinder. Check for leaks on the brake calipers, brake fluid reservoirs, and hydraulic brake cables.

Other areas prone to leaks are coolant pipes, radiators, and the water pump gasket. In case of any leaks, ensure that you deal with them before riding the bike.

Inspect the Sprockets for Wear and Damage

The chain and sprocket are critical in any dirt bike. Unfortunately, dirt wears out the bushings and rollers. Although lubricating the chain might seem like a good idea, sometimes it could worsen the situation. The lube forms a sticky substance that attracts dirt. You need to clean the chain as this makes inspection for damage easier.

For sprockets, look for any eroded/chipped teeth and missing teeth. Worn sprockets are easy to spot. Other indicators include bent rear chain guides, bent sprockets, or chain rub blocks that are worn through. If you find them damaged, it’s best to replace both the chain and sprockets. 

Another area where people make a mistake is in the chain and sprocket alignment. That’s what leads to premature chain failure. Make sure that the chain is centered on the sprocket tooth. Use a chain adjuster to correct the misalignment. 

Ever wondered how long the chains and sprockets last? All that depends on the riding environment, maintenance, and rising habits. If you want the sprockets and chains to last longer, make sure that you inspect the drive components regularly, adjust the chain properly, and keep the drivetrain clean and lubricated. 

Check the Brakes and Brake Pads

Brake pads tend to wear out over time as the material breaks down until all that is left is the backing plate. The hardened steel can damage the brake rotor when this happens. Moreover, you could end up with brakes that no longer work. It’s critical to check your motorcycle brake pads routinely.

Brake pads that are between 0.04 in and 1.00mm need to be replaced. Some brake pads have indicator marks that are no longer visible when worn out. That is an indication to replace them immediately. Also, you need to replace other brake components like the rotors.

Carry Out Air Filter Maintenance

Your dirt bike’s air filter helps get rid of external elements you may encounter while riding. It’s essential to check the air filter regularly as dirt and debris may be embedded in the filter and not visible to the eye. Accumulation of moisture in the air filter can also result in other consequences. 

Experts recommend atleast cleaning the air filter after one ride. Ensure that the filter is also covered in a good amount of oil, as too little can easily get through the intake, and too much can weep into the engine. The air filter should be replaced between 6-10 hrs of riding depending on how hard you ride and terrain.

Exhaust Pipe Maintenance

Focus on cleaning the outside of the exhaust pipe to prevent corrosion and rust. Don’t forget to check the muffler packing. Four-stroke bikes have the muffler packing compressed, which makes it ineffective. If you notice the compression, it means that it’s time to replace it.

The best exhaust packing prevents the exhaust from becoming too hot. Some are made from fiberglass for durability and maximum performance. 

Plastic Maintenance

Your dirt bike is designed with mudguards, fenders, and side paneling to protect you and your bike from debris and dirt. They also come in handyman the event of a crash. Regular cleaning can prevent plastic parts from looking old and faded. 

When restoring the plastic parts, some experts suggest sanding the plastic as it allows for better absorption. There are plastic restorers that provide a clean and fresh look by working as an undercoat protector and a lubricant. Some block UV rays to reduce cracking and fading.

Carburetor Care and Maintenance 

Carburetors in a 4-stroke dirt bike regulate airflow through the main bore. It’s this flowing air that draws in fuel, and the mixture gets into the engine through the intake valve. They consist of a center bore, a bowl, passage, vents, jets, a slide, air/fuel ratio adjustment, accelerator pump, and idle speed adjustment.

Some of the signs that show you need a carburetor tuning include:

  • A bike that isn’t smooth to accelerate
  • Engine hiccups when the throttle is opened
  • The engine overheats even when you don’t race a lot
  • Reduced fuel efficiency

The importance of carrying out routine maintenance is to determine the right air-to-fuel ratio that the engine is getting. Adjusting these ratios ensures that your bike functions optimally. If you have a weak spark, check the ignition coil. A damaged ignition coil causes the engine to miss at high rpm and run erratically.

Clogged carburetor vent hoses are another problem that needs to be addressed. Any dirt and debris accumulation in the hoses or vent tubes causes jetting to be lean, something that makes the engine sluggish.  

A worn carburetor fuel inlet needle needs to be replaced every two years. Failure to replace it means the fuel will get into the float bowl and go up the pilot jet and into the engine. 

Spoke Tightening and Maintenance

Spoked wheels are more durable than single-piece cast wheels, and that’s the reason they are fitted on most dirt bikes. However, the spokes which are between the tire and rim are neglected. Loose spokes cab damage or break the rim, which is something that can be costly to repair or replace. Also, overtightening strips the thread and stresses the rim.

You need to check the spokes regularly by tapping them with a metallic item. A dull sound will be heard if you have loose spokes, while tight spokes have a high pitch. Check if your wheel is running true by placing it on a stand and allow it to spin freely. 

Maintaining dirt bike spokes requires tightening them when they become loose. Follow these simple tips if you’re doing this on your own:

  • You can use a spoke wrench or get a spoke torque wrench to tighten the spokes.
  • Avoid using pliers as it could damage the nipples.
  • Put the spoke wrench over the spoke’s head.
  • Turn the loose spokes anti-clockwise and examine the inside of the rim as you tighten the spoke.
  • If you need to loosen the spoke, turn the spoke clockwise. The direction is unlike regular bolts and nuts that use a clockwise direction when tightening.
  • Remove the wrench and tap on the spokes to listen to the sound.
  • If the sound is high pitched, this shows the spokes are properly tightened, but if it’s dull, you may need to tighten them again.  

Change the Piston and Rings

The durability of the piston and rings depends on how you ride the dirt bike. If you are a weekend rider, the pistons will wear out gently, but for motocross racers, the pistons wear out faster. Other factors like track conditions will affect the longevity of the pistons and rings.

It’s best to change the piston in a 4-stroke dirt bike used for racing at least every 30 hours of riding. Although most people suggest that riding a bike gently can get you up to 100 hours of a 4-stroke piston, exposing the piston to tough conditions can break it. That’s why it’s recommended to change the piston every 50 hours when riding the dirt bike gently. 

Replace Worn Out or Damaged Bearings

It can be challenging to know when bearings wear out, which is why you need to check them often and replace them once you notice something is out of place. You can check the wheel bearings by holding the dirt bike and trying to move the wheels from side to side. 

Check the swingarm linkage bearings by placing the dirt bike on its stand. Take the rear wheel and try to move it up and down. The movement will point to the top rear shock bearing or the linkage bearing. Any wheel movement shows that the bearings need to be replaced.

To replace wheel bearings, you’ll need a screwdriver, a wrench to remove the wheel, punch, hammer, bearing retainer tools, and a bearing installer/socket.  

Here are the steps to replace the bearings on a dirt bike:

  1. Start with a clean bike. Wash it to make your work easier and let you know if you have a leak or any other problem with your bike.
  2. Set the bike on a stand once it’s dry and remove the wheel that has the bearings you need to replace. 
  3. Remove the seals with a screwdriver to get to the bearings. Get rid of the retainer and flip the wheel to remove the bearing. Take the punch and push the wheel space in between the bearings to hit the bearing.
  4.  Hammer on the punch to knock the bearing out of the wheel. You want the bearing coming out straight. You’ll notice the wheel spacer out once the first wheel bearing is out. 
  5. When installing new bearings, clean the area around the wheel and set it back on the stand. Take the wheel bearing and place it on the journal. Use a piece of wood to hammer the bearing in until its flush. Install the wheel spacer once you flip the wheel over to the other side. 

Conclusion

4-stroke dirt bikes have multiple moving parts, which means they require lots of maintenance. These bikes are fast, powerful, and efficient, something that makes it ideal for trails and other races.

The above tips will help you understand how a 4-stroke bike works and how to maintain it to ensure the bike is simple to handle, easy to ride, and offers optimum power when maneuvering and controlling it. 

How to Fix a Dirt Bike With No Spark: Step-by-Step Guide

Nothing is more disappointing than trying to start your dirt bike, hoping for a ride only for you to realize your dirt bike won’t start. Trying to figure out what the issue is with your bike can be even more frustrating. If you are a rider, it’s only a matter of time before you experience this “no spark” condition.

To fix a dirt bike with no spark, you must remove the spark plug from the cylinder block, put it back in the ignition coil, and kick start the bike to check for the spark. If there is no spark, replace the plug with a new one and double-check all the electric components and repeat the process.

The rest of this article will list a step-by-step guide to fix a dirt bike without a spark and discuss other topics related to this question.

Start With the Rather Obvious Issues

Confirm you have fuel in your tank. Most riders will check the fuel gauge, which may display a full tank. It is, however, worth noting that gauges can malfunction. Listen for a slosh of gas in the tank when you joist your bike before assuming the worst. If you confirm there is fuel in your tank, you can go ahead to check for other components.

While ensuring the kill switch is off looks quite apparent, your bike may fail to start. Most riders rarely use the kill switch; therefore, leave it on after use and forget to switch it off, or someone else might have flipped it on by mistake. Consequently, it is worth checking since the engine is cut off when the kill switch is on, meaning it cannot start. Besides, checking out the kill switch will only take you a minute and could save you lots of time.

Make sure to engage the clutch before you start the bike. This might be common knowledge to an experienced rider; however, a newbie may easily forget about it. It could be the reason why your motorcycle won’t start. It is also possible that your clutch switch is damaged. Pumping the clutch a few times could help you reset the switch; however, you may need a more permanent solution, maybe a clutch replacement.

If your bike has a fuel valve, ensure that it is set to an on position. If it is set in the wrong position, your bike will not start. Please turn it on, and then give it a few minutes for the carburetor float bowls to fill.

Check if the Battery Is Good

After you have ensured that all the basics are set, it’s time to check if the battery is okay. Your battery could be the issue if you have the following signs:

  • Dim running lights
  • You hear a clicking noise every time you turn your key
  • A short-lived crack of the starter

If you are still not sure if your battery is in good condition, then it is time to inspect and test it. A visual inspection of the battery will involve the following steps:

  1. Check for a broken terminal.
  2. Check the battery for leaks.
  3. Look for bumps or cracks on the battery case.

If all is okay, it is time to check for the voltage. You can decide to do it yourself or take your battery to an auto shop. You will use a digital voltmeter to load test the battery. The voltage readings of your battery should read between 9.5 and 10.5 for approximately 30 seconds. If the readings stay stable, your battery is all good, and your bike most probably has another issue. 

Fortunately, it still does not mean you have to call a mechanic or cancel your trip. There are still other things you can troubleshoot to find out why your bike will not start.

Check Your Spark Plugs

The no-spark issue is statistically one of the most common problems for riders. You should note that it does not mean you start disassembling your bike right away. The very first place to start is your spark plugs. 

To test your spark plugs:

  1. Remove plugs from the cylinder head.
  2. Plug them into the plug cap.
  3. Holding the plug up to the head bolt, turn over the engine.
  4. A yellow or blue spark bridging the gap signifies that the spark is strong enough to ignite the cylinder’s fuel/air mixture.
  5. In case there is no spark or the spark is too weak, consider charging your plugs and try again.
  6. If the spark seems strong, but your bike still won’t start, you will need to keep testing. 

You can also visually inspect your plug wires and caps to ensure that they are okay. Usually, your bike will still run even when they are in bad shape; however, you will not have a smooth ride. You must make spark plugs checking a part of your routine maintenance as it will improve your bike’s general condition.

Sometimes, the spark plug might be okay; however, the connections to it might be faulty. Ensure that you inspect both the spark plug and the connections to it, to make sure that everything is good before you check another thing.

Ensure That Your Bike Is Turned On

This may seem obvious, but it should be noted that the ignition switch can fail. Newer bike models have an anti theft feature that prevents the bike from starting when the switch is bypassed by hot wiring. The switch must be turned on for the bike to start. When switched on, the multi-tester will display a positive electric flow from the switch to the coil. If this is not the case, then it is a sign the switch is broken.

Ensure That the Power Leaving the Switch Gets to the Spark Plug Caps

In step 2, you ensured there was power leaving the switch. Now, you will need to ensure that this power is reaching the spark plug caps. For this test, you will need to use a bulb tester or a multimeter. The tester will display an on and off reading for every engine revolution. If there is no record of an alternating flow of current, you may need to replace the spark plug wire or the spark plug cap.

Ensure Your Battery Is Fully Charged

Sometimes with a no spark situation, the problem is not severe; it could be a little as an undercharged battery. Therefore, it is imperative to check every component of your bike without jumping to any premature conclusions. An undercharged battery will not be able to build up enough cranking speed making ignition impossible.

Check your battery to ensure it is fully charged. If it is fully charged and your bike still does not start, you can go on and check elements of the ignition system.

Carry Out a Wiring Inspection

Make use of a wiring diagram to carry out an inspection. The wiring diagram of your dirt bike can be found online. Every wire should have continuity between its terminals. Get a visual of every wire, its connection as well as its path. Also, ensure that it is secured; use your finger to ensure it feels tight. A ground wire should be continuous to the ground, while non-ground wires should not have continuity.

However, the wires should have continuity with themselves at the system. A wire without continuity creates an open circuit, which will cause the ignition system to act as if the pickup coil is faulty, resulting in a no spark condition. A dirt bike is often exposed to harsh conditions that could easily cause an open or a grounded circuit, broken insulation, which leads to a no spark condition. 

Statistically, wiring problems are more common than component problems. It’s thus imperative that you inspect your wiring thoroughly. Motorcycles have fuses that can blow just like in a car. Having a fuse kit with you is essential as you will be able to replace the blown fuse. If your fuses keep blowing after you have replaced them, this could sign a more serious electrical issue in your bike’s wiring. 

Check the Fuel System

Your bike may not start because of fuel issues, especially if stored for a long time. The fuel in your fuel tank could destabilize over time and therefore fail to combust. In this case, all you need is fresh gas in your tank to have your engine come to life. 

When your bike has been stored for a long time, its fuel system is likely to dry out, resulting in cracks and plugging of the fuel filters. These will result in less fuel or none at all, passing through and causing your bike not to start. 

Once you have identified the issue is with a clogged petcock, rattling the petcock could help dislodge a blockage. However, you might need a deep cleaning or a replacement before your bike can start and run again.

Your bike may also fail to start because it is flooded. If this is the case, the solution is to unflood your engine. Follow these steps to unflood your engine:

  1. Remove the spark plugs.
  2. Turn off the choke and turn over the motor until the excess gas has dissipated.
  3. If you are not in a hurry, you can allow your bike some time for the extra fuel to evaporate.

Besides fuel, your dirt bike will need air to start and run. Your motorcycle needs the right amount of air mixing with the fuel. A broken vacuum line can cause too much air to get into the combustion chamber, which will alter the fuel/air mixture, causing the engine to fail to ignite. Ensure you check for holes or a crack on your vacuum lines. Resealing the cracks and holes will solve your problem.

Sometimes, resealing may not be possible, which may force you to have a replacement before you can have your bike running again. It is also possible for your issue to be too little air. Ensure that air can pass through your filter; in case there is an issue here, cleaning your filter could quickly fix up the problem.

Test the Specific Component of the Ignition System

Sometimes troubleshooting the general problems will not be enough. To conduct specific components testing, you will require a few tools, a multimeter that will be used to measure the voltage as well as resistance, and a PVA to enable the multimeter to read the rhythmic voltage, where the voltage fluctuates significantly over a short time.

  1. Spark plugs should be installed in the cylinder; functional plugs should also be installed on the caps.
  2. Ensure that the spark plugs on the caps are grounded to the engine.
  3. Place all the ignition circuit buttons in the run position.
  4. Plug-in the connector to be tested for peak voltage.
  5. Use the electric starter or kick-starter to turn over the engine.
  6. Use the multimeter and Peak Voltage Adapter (PVA) to measure the peak voltage. 
  7. In case the peak voltage is not within the specified range, test other possible locations such as the crank position; test the sensor peak voltage at this position as well as the ECM connector.

Use your service booklet to inspect the ignition coils, including peak voltage testing and resistance testing. In case the peak voltage testing specifications are not provided, measure the primary resistance between the ignition primary coil’s two terminals. If the loop has only a single terminal, measure the primary resistance between the terminal and the ground.

Additionally, test out the secondary resistance between the principal ignition terminal and the spark plug top. If the ignition has two spark plug wires, test the secondary coil resistance between the two plug caps. Check the resistance with the caps removed from the wires; also replace the ignition spark plug, coil, wires, or caps if the resistance is out of range.

Next, you need to check the pickup coil, exciter coil, and crank position sensor for peak voltage and resistance following your service manual. Please check this from multiple locations such as the ECM connector and the coil connector. This way, you will determine if the element is running correctly, as well as if the wiring is in one piece.

You will also be required to inspect the switches in the starting system to ensure continuity and ensure using your service booklet or wiring illustration. Generally, the controls involved include the ignition switch, side stand button, gear position switch, tip-over, and the reverse override, among other safety switches in the ignition system. In case of faulty switches, make sure to replace them and their corresponding wiring.

Determine Whether the ECU or ICM Is Faulty

In most cases, the only way to determine that the ECU or the ICM is faulty is by ruling out all other possibilities; resistance checks for the Ignition Control Module (ICM) or the Engine Control Unit (ECU) are carried out only on rare cases. Unfortunately, most riders want to jump onward and conclude that the ICM or ECU is faulty without inspecting the whole system. 

The truth is that a corrupt wire is a more likely cause for your trouble than a defective component. Therefore, it is essential that you trust the process and first inspect the system without rushing to any conclusions. Do not consider replacing your ICM or ECU lest you are entirely sure it is the faulty one. 

Bear in mind that this is only possible if you have carried out a full diagnostic to ensure that every ignition structure, components, wires, switches, and connectors are perfect. If you jump to conclusions, you may end up spending a lot of money and time unnecessarily.

The following is a video on how to fix a dirt bike with no spark:

Things You Shouldn’t Do When Trying to Start Your Bike

There are quite a number of things you should do to troubleshoot your bike; however, there are some that you should not try.

  • Do not overlook the small things. There are some seemingly simple things to consider when your bike will not start and end up saving you both time and money. Start with the straightforward stuff before you head to the complicated stuff.
  • Do not jump start the battery with a car. You might feel tempted to check if the reason for your bike’s failure to start is the battery, and you might want to jumpstart it like you would your car. Note that jumpstarting your battery might not be the way to go as the spike in voltage could fry your microprocessor and your bike system due to the voltage difference.
  • Do not void your warranty. If you have a warranty for your bike, avoid rendering it void by carrying out repairs. Avoid taking measures that go against your warranty terms; instead, get approval from the dealership or manufacturer first.

Conclusion

Having a dirt bike that won’t start can be frustrating but before you lose your mind over it, take your time to cross off some of the simple pre-trip list things. Sometimes you will manage to get your bike running again without much of a hassle, but sometimes you will need professional help. These steps will help you figure out what could be wrong with your bike and get repairs started.

Can You Use Car Oil in a Four-Wheeler?

If you have a car and a four-wheeler, you may be tempted to stick with the same oil for both of them. It’s convenient, but you’re also probably thinking that since the oil can work for a car engine, it should work with a four-wheeler. Is this a good idea, though?

You can use car oil for a four-wheeler, but it is not the right decision in many cases. This is because the oil formulation will affect different engines in different ways. The perfect car oil may not have the right formulation required to keep a four-wheeler running optimally.  

The rest of the article will take a closer look at the case against pouring car oil into a four-wheeler engine. There’s also a section on the best oils to use instead.

Why Regular Car Oil Won’t Work in four-wheelers

The main reasons we add oil to engines are to protect against wear and tear and protect against the damage caused by extreme heat while the engine is running. Under extreme heat, deposits will form in the engine, making it less powerful and reducing its overall efficiency. The heat can also lead to faster oxidation of the oil, which will make it unable to protect the engine as it should.

So, while it may seem like a good idea to use the same motor oil you already have or to buy a cheap one at the store, you should reconsider the decision if you don’t want to damage your engine. Or waste too much time, energy, and money on trying to prevent oxidation via regular oil changes.

How Car Oil Interacts With a four-wheeler Engine

A four-wheeler won’t see a lot of miles when compared to your regular car, but the engine in it revs very high and runs super hard when in use. The engine is designed to work heavily, but at slower speeds than a car. This engine configuration means that conventional car oil will, in most cases, not have enough oil film strength for the engine.

The slow, but power-sapping operations of a four-wheeler increases stress on engine bearings. If the oil film strength is inadequate (as is the case with car oils in such an engine), the pressure from running the engine will rupture the oil film, leading to worn out bearings.

Oils designed for four-wheelers ensure that durable protective film remains in the engine regardless of the condition. By getting these instead of using regular car oil, your machine’s engine will function more optimally.  

Another important point you should keep in mind here is that oil made for four-wheelers also have to lubricate the transmission. Car oils don’t have this composition as the transmission in conventional vehicles typically has a designated lubricant. 

four-wheeler oils don’t come with the same type of friction modification seen in car oils, so they do a better job when it comes to protecting your transmission and ensuring excellent transmission performance.

How Often Should You Change Your four-wheeler Oil?

You should change the oil in a four-wheeler more frequently compared to your car, in terms of total miles traveled. The exact frequency will vary depending on usage, but you should aim to change the oil in the vehicle every 100 hours or 1000 miles on average. However, you don’t have to wait until you hit those numbers. The oil in the engine will lose its efficacy after around six months due to oxidation.

If you use your four-wheeler for sport, you should change the oil every 25 to 30 hours. If you take part in races regularly, you should change the oil after every race. For racing, protecting the engine is more important than anything else. 

You need to ensure your engine can handle the stress and heat from racing, and the best way to do this is to ensure there’s fresh oil providing high film strength and resistance to thermal breakdown at all times.

Are There Signs to Look Out for Before Changing Your four-wheeler Oil?

Unfortunately, you can’t use an eye-test to know when to change the engine oil in a four-wheeler. The only way to do this is to take some of the oil to the lab for some checks. Apart from the fact that you have to know what to check for first and foremost, this is obviously impractical for a lot of people. Therefore, the best bet is to stick to the recommended oil change intervals above as closely as possible.

Best Oils to Use for a four-wheeler Vehicle

If you’re looking for the best oils to use for your four-wheeler, the first thing you should do is check your user manual to see the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Most manufacturers of four-wheeler vehicles also have in-house oil, which they recommend for use on their four-wheelers. Yamaha and Cam-Am are popular examples, with their YamaLube All-Purpose and Can-Am XPS 4-Stroke, respectively. Other oils may have extra advantages, but using the oil designed to work for the engine by the vehicle manufacturer covers all the basics at the very least.

If your manufacturer doesn’t have a product you can buy, they will provide specific recommendations on the type of oil you should use. Pay attention to the type of oil recommended, and most importantly, the viscosity. Armed with this information, you can head to the shop. 

Here are some of the best ATV Oil options in the market today:

Maxima ATV Premium Engine Oil

Since 1979, Maxima has been producing high-quality lubricants for all kinds of engines. Their racing history also means you can count on them to produce the right lubricant needed for high rev engines such as four-wheelers. The oil’s tolerance for heat and fluidity is without doubts some of the best you’ll find.

Amsoil 5W-50

The AMSOIL brand has become synonymous with synthetic oils. They’ve been producing lubricants for more than 40 years, focusing on providing a range of products suited for four-wheelers. Their 5W-50 is a popular option, but you can look through their range of products for other options.

Polaris PS-4 

Polaris is another popular brand in the oil niche. Their PS-4 has the right chemical composition to keep your four-wheelers running optimally. It also comes with an oil change kit, including an oil filter. So, going with this option can save you some money on useful accessories.

Honda 08C35-A141L01

This model from Honda comes with a viscosity grade of 10W-40, which means it will work well across a wide temperature spectrum. This oil is popular with motorbike owners, but it has also been proven to work well with four-wheelers.

Valvoline 4-Stroke

The Valvoline 4-stroke is one of the engine oils designed with four-wheelers in mind. Its chemical composition means it is non-detergent oil. This allows it to work perfectly without an oil filter. It’s also another product you can trust to work in all kinds of weather.

Conclusion

Your car oil can work with your four-wheeler. However, over an extended period, this approach will reduce the engine’s efficiency and ultimately shorten its lifespan. To keep the engine in your vehicle functioning optimally, you should only use either manufacturer-recommended oils or other options that have been proven to work for vehicles like your brand.

When you find the right oil, you should be sure to change the oil regularly—in line with your typical usage. The best four-wheeler oils will still fail if you don’t change when it’s due.

2 Stroke Dirt Bike Maintenance: A Complete Guide

2-stroke dirt bikes are amazing machines with a power band all their own making for a very unique riding experience. 2-strokes are said to be somewhat maintenance free but that doesn’t mean that you can just keep getting on and riding without ever giving it any love.

2-stroke dirt bike maintenance involves cleaning the air filter, checking the oil, maintaining the carburetor, cleaning and lubricating the cables, chain, and sprocket, and keeping everything clean and free of mud and dirt after every ride.

Read on to learn more about how a 2-stroke dirt bike works, signs that you may be neglecting maintenance, and some essential maintenance tips to ensure everything is working properly and you get to ride and enjoy your bike.

How Does a 2-Stroke Dirt Bike Work?

A 2-stroke dirt bike engine fires and produces power, once for each revolution of the crankshaft. Every time the piston goes up, it’s filled with a balanced combination of petrol and oil. That combination is compressed, and the spark plug ignites it, which results in an explosion. That action forces the piston to go back down, and the process repeats itself. 

What Is the Difference Between a 2-Stroke and a 4-Stroke?

The difference between these two engines is the combustion cycle process depends on the frequency the piston moves up and down during every cycle. 

For a 2-stroke engine, the whole combustion cycle requires one piston stroke to be completed. There is a compression stroke and an explosion of the compressed fuel. The return stroke means the exhaust is let out, which allows fresh fuel mixture to get into the cylinder. The spark plugs will fire every single revolution, and this produces power once every two strokes of the piston.

What’s more, you need oil to be pre-mixed in with the fuel with 2-stroke engines.

However, for a 4-stroke engine, the piston completes two strokes during each revolution. That involves one exhaust stroke and one compression stroke. They are each followed by a return stroke. The spark plugs fire once every other revolution, and this produces power every four strokes of the piston.

The 4-stroke engine does not need pre-mixing of oil and fuel as it has a separate compartment for the oil. 

Lack of proper maintenance will not only cost you in terms of the fees for replacing the parts, but it could also mean you may not enjoy your ride as much as you’d like. Below are some essential maintenance tips.

Engine Maintenance

The engine of a dirt bike plays a critical role in the overall performance of your dirt bike. The advantage of 2-stroke engines is that they don’t have valves, something that reduces their weight. They also have low output in horsepower and fire once each revolution. 2-stroke engines can function in any position as oil flow isn’t a problem. 

On the downside, 2-stroke engine parts wear out a lot. These engines also use more fuel, which means dealing with a lot of pollution. Failure to maintain the engine means you would need to replace the parts often, which is expensive. 

Signs You Need to Maintain Your Engine

Some of the signs that you may be neglecting your engine include:

  • Diminishing engine power. If you’ve noticed that engine power has diminished, this could be due to a clogged air cleaner, restricted fuel flow in the carburetor, worn rings, worn valves and seats, ignition problems, leaking gaskets, or a stuck valve. 
  • Hard to start engine. Another indication of a dirt bike engine maintenance problem is when starting your bike becomes an issue. That could be attributed to a stuck valve, worn valves, worn rings, ignition problem, leaking gaskets, the decompression system could be out of adjustment, or the cam timing could be off. 
  • Noisy top end. A loose cam chain, worn cam bearings, a worn cam chain guide, or out of spec valve clearances could all result in a noisy top end. 
  • White smoke. When a head gasket starts leaking, you may notice white smoke as soon as the engine starts burning coolant. 
  • Blue smoke. Blue smoke is an indication that the valve seals could be allowing oil to leak past them. Also, the piston rings may no longer be sealing correctly. 
  • Creamy engine oil. Creamy engine oil is an indication that moisture could be getting into the engine oil. Too much moisture in the oil should be a concern as this shows the water pump seal could be leaking.
  • Engine consumes oil. If you notice that your engine is consuming too much oil, it could be entering into the combustion chamber from worn piston rings or worn valve seals.
  • Big pieces of metal in the engine oil. Although metallic particles can be found in engine oil, large metal pieces could indicate damaged parts.
  • Engine that vibrates excessively. Worn counterbalance bearings, out of place crankshaft, a loose clutch, or a mistimed counterbalancer could cause excessive engine vibration. 
  • Noisy bottom end. Bottom end noise could be due to gears that are lubricated improperly, damaged stuck bearings, and a worn bushing and needle bearing between the clutch basket.

Tips on Engine Maintenance

Engine maintenance involves engine oil, air filters, and coolant.

Engine Oil

Dirt bike engines are small and work more with high compression ratios. 2-Stroke dirt bike engines require frequent oil changes. You should change the engine oil every ten hours of riding. It doesn’t matter the type of oil you choose as the frequency is more essential.

Pressure and heat can break down oil, and this leaves the engine vulnerable to heat buildup and performance loss. 

Changing oil on a 2-stroke dirt bike is simple. It takes a few minutes, and it’s one of the critical maintenance procedures. 

Below is a step by step guide on how to change oil.

  1. Start with a clean bike. Always start with a clean bike. You can warm up the bike as oil drains well when hot. All you need is to take the dirt bike for a spin and turn it off.
  2. Unscrew the oil cap. Place the bike upright and unscrew the oil cap on the engine casing. Ensure that no dirt drops into the transmission.
  3. Drain the oil. Put a bucket under the bike and unscrew the drain plug. That will allow the oil to drain out. You need to ensure you get rid of the oil by tilting the bike from side to side.
  4. Screw the drain plug. Once you drain out all the oil, it’s time to screw the drain plug back. Make sure that you don’t over tighten it or cross thread as this could damage the drain plug. Replace the drain plug if it gets damaged. 
  5. Put the transmission oil. Use the top filler hole to pour in the recommended amount of transmission oil. Your manual should tell you the correct amount. A few bikes allow you to check the oil levels through the check bolt on the side that you can unscrew. 
  6. Screw the oil cap. Wipe any dirt from the oil cap. Check if the washer is in proper condition to make sure it seals tightly. Screw the oil cap back, but don’t over tighten it. 

Air Filters

Air filters play a critical role in your dirt bike engine performance. A dirty air filter means airflow is affected, which means your bike won’t function as expected. What’s more, they can damage the engine by allowing dirt particles in the combustion chamber. These particles end up scratching the chamber and messing up with the piston and other parts.

The air filter could also collect moisture, and that means interfering with air filtration. That’s why it’s critical to inspect your air filter regularly. When checking your air filter pay attention to the filter oil coverage, and check for the presence of sand and silt. 

It’s recommended to clean the air filter after every ride to avoid wearing out the engine. A simple way to do this is to follow these simple steps:

  1. Get a cleaner, oil, and rim grease.
  2. Put some caps of the cleaner into warm water.
  3. Dip the dirty air filter into the warm water.
  4. Avoid turning and twisting the filter as this could damage it.
  5. Squeeze the filter and rinse it off under running water.
  6. Remove any excess water and allow it to dry.
  7. Apply oil on the filter evenly once it’s dried completely.
  8. Don’t forget to clean the rim and apply rim grease.
  9. Put the air filter back and enjoy your ride.

Coolant

Having sufficient coolant in the radiator is critical as this is what ensures the engine remains cool always. You may have changed your engine oil and cleaned out the air filter, but failure to have enough coolant could damage your engine.

Make sure you have enough coolant before each ride. If you can’t spot the level of the fluid, that means you have insufficient coolant, and you need to fill it up. When it’s too hot outside, this equals heat. Flush the radiator and put some coolant. 

Brake and Brake Pads Maintenance

Another part you should never neglect when doing maintenance is the brake and brake pads of your dirt bike. Front brake pads undergo harsh conditions and are responsible for most of the work. That’s why it’s essential to inspect the brakes and brake pads regularly to ensure you get the strongest performing braking system.

Having functional front brakes comes in handy when you are hitting the ramps since stopping distances are tight when competing. 

Front Brakes Maintenance

Start by checking the hydraulic system for adequate pressure or leaks. Simply grab the front brake lever and squeeze it to check for pressure. Inspect the front brake system from the master cylinder to the caliper, while checking for signs of dirt accumulation or wetness. 

After inspection, here are some tips on how to maintain brakes for smooth functionality:

  • Replace brake fluid. It is time to replace the brake fluid if it’s old or dirty. The fluid absorbs moisture and may require flushing. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations when replacing the fluid.
  • Adjust the brake lever. Placing your brake lever incorrectly can lead to the constant pressure of the pads on the rotor. Also, you may be dealing with insufficient pressure. Check to ensure it is adjusted, and everything works correctly. 
  • Clean the brake pads. Clean up the brake system and the brake pads when cleaning the rest of the bike. 
  • Clean the clutch cables. The clutch cables are critical parts of your dirt bike. These cables offer access to vital controls, and that’s why you need to keep them in good condition if you plan on using your bike for a long time. You need to clean and lubricate the throttle and clutch cables after every ride. 
  • Lubricate the clutch cables. When cleaning and lubricating the cables, you need to remove the cable from the lever and perch. Disconnect the carburetor end when dealing with throttle cables and use a standard contact cleaner to do the flushing as this will clean off any grime and dirt. Also, lubricating the cables prolongs the longevity of your cables and prevents the accumulation of mud and dust. 

Chain and Sprocket Care

Another essential aspect of a 2-stroke dirt bike maintenance is the chain and sprocket care. Sprockets are critical as they help transfer power to the rear wheel through the help of a drive chain. The sprockets need to endure heavy energy loads and maintain structural functionality. 

With this regular stress, the result is constant pressure on the rear sprockets and countershaft. The parts begin to wear out. Avoid riding on dry chains and sprockets as this only damages the bike. It’s advisable to lubricate the chain and sprockets if you are looking for a smooth riding experience. 

Inspect your bike for any signs of wear and tear in the chains of your dirt bike. In case of any tear, replace the chain to avoid any accidents. Waterproof lube works best for 2-stroke dirt bike chains as it doesn’t wash away. 

Check the Transmission Fluid

Most transmission problems on a dirt bike start with the transmission fluid. The fluid resembles the engine oil as a few dirt bike models use similar oil in the transmission. Check to see if the transmission fluid is fresh and clear. 

A dark brown or black cloudy oil shows that the transmission oil is overdue for a replacement, and you need to replace it. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations when replacing the fluid. Furthermore, you should always check the transmission fluid level a day before riding. 

Running the dirt bike with low transmission fluid could damage the internal components and lead to overheating. Low transmission fluid levels also cause wear and tear on the clutch and gears. Check the manual to know the type of oil to use and when to change the transmission fluid. 

Pipe Maintenance

The pipes are prone to corrosion and rust due to exposure to weather and road conditions. Moreover, the part between the cylinder and exhaust spigot that contains the rubber O-ring is often overlooked. 

Check the seal for cracks and other problems. It’s advisable to replace the O-ring. You can use silicone if the new ring doesn’t fit properly. 

Spoke Maintenance

Spokes often get lost, and also sometimes they can break, leading to a crash. In some cases, the spokes can get caught up in another part of the wheel. You need to check and tighten the spokes if you get a new wheel or when you have a new bike. 

When it comes to inspecting the spokes, you need to avoid going through every spoke in a row as this could make the wheel get out of true. Once you’ve tightened the first spoke, skip the next two, and check the third spoke. That means you’ll go through the spokes three times around the wheel. In case of any loose spoke, your wheel won’t be going out of true when you go around it three times.

Another thing to note is to not over tighten the loose spokes as this could get the wheel out of true. Tighten the loose spokes equally to ensure that it stays in place. A spoke torque wrench is a fantastic tool to help you tighten the spokes properly. Read the owner’s manual to understand how to tighten each spoke based on the recommended torque setting. 

Carburetor Care and Maintenance

The carburetor is the part likely to fail first if left unchecked. It keeps your dirt bike functioning at peak efficiency. Having a dirty carburetor affects performance, and this could make your bike fail to function.

Some of the signs that indicate it’s time to clean the carburetor include:

  • An engine that fails to starts
  • The engine begins to run lean when the balance of gas and fuel is thrown off
  • Presence of dirt or debris in the carburetor, causing fuel flow out
  • An engine that runs rich shows the fuel is excess, and there is insufficient air

Get the required tools before you remove the carburetor and disassemble it. You need to get: 

  • Safety gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • A service manual
  • A wrench
  • Compressed air
  • A socket wrench
  • A small screwdriver
  • A hex key
  • Rags
  • A carburetor cleaner
  • A low strength thread locker 

Start by cleaning the carburetor. However, you need to be careful. The service manual will tell you the specific tools and their size required for cleaning. 

What you need to do then is to remove the carburetor from your dirt bike. However, before that, turn off the primary fuel supply and use a tiny screw in the bike’s chamber base and a hose to drain the float chamber. Here are the next steps:

  1. Remove the slide and control cable once you’ve removed the carburetor from the engine.
  2. Turn the carburetor upside down and locate the four screws that house the float chamber.
  3. Remove the screws and use the handle of your screwdriver to loosen the chamber from the gasket.
  4. Once you remove the float chamber, you’ll see the primary jet, main floats, and jets. Remove the floats as they are delicate. 
  5. Remove the air or fuel adjusting screw in the bike’s carburetor.
  6. Check the location of the screws to determine the type your carburetor has. 

Some of the steps you should take to clean the carburetor include:

  1. Clean the float bowl. Get a carb cleaner and a rag. Use this to clean the float bowl, while checking all other components of the carburetor. 
  2. Flush out all the holes. The next step is to flush out the holes in the carburetor’s body. You can use a carburetor cleaner and compressed air to blow through these holes. Ensure that you use goggles to cover your eyes from the dirt particles and fluids that may splash from the holes.
  3. Reinstall the carburetor. The process of assembling the carburetor is similar to the disassembly process. The only thing different is that you need to check the float heights before reconnecting the float chamber. You’ll need to fine-tune the air adjusting screw every time you assemble the bike carburetor. Once you’ve reattached the carburetor and started the engine, give it time to warm up to normal temperature.

Reed Maintenance

Does your 2-stroke dirt bike always become hard to start, or do you experience carbon deposits on the exhaust opening? That could indicate an issue with your reed. Failure to check the outer corners and surfaces of the reed located within the reed cage could affect your dirt bike performance.

Monitor the reeds when you start experiencing problems with your bike. The other alternative would be to replace the reed pedals. 

Remove the screws that hold the pedal in place and install a new pedal. All you need is a screwdriver. Use a thread-locking agent on the screws to fit them in place. Moreover, use a fresh gasket when installing the reed cage back in the motor. 

Spark Plug Maintenance

The spark plug determines the running condition of your dirt bike’s engine. Cold spark plugs are used on high rpm engines, while hot plugs are used on low rpm engines. If you are having issues with fouling, you should use the stock heat range plug as a start point.

On 2-stroke dirt bikes, oil is mixed into the gasoline, something that allows the spark plug to foul out quicker than 4-stroke dirt bikes. Nonetheless, this is dependent on carb tuning. You’ll need to tune the carb on the rich side to hasten along the plug’s fouling. 

Avoid replacing the plug far outside the recommended heat range. Also, it’s best to have a spare spark plug on hand for the unexpected days. Remember that elevation affects spark plugs on 2-stroke dirt bikes because of tuning. That means it will foul faster when you overstretch your dirt bike limits. 

Another point of concern is that bad spark plugs could interfere with your dirt bike’s performance. Some signs of a bad dirt bike spark plugs include:

  • Having a flooded engine
  • A misfiring motorcycle
  • Dealing with backfiring
  • Physical indicators like rust, burn marks, corrosion, and broken tips

All of the above show that you are dealing with bad spark plugs, and you may need to replace them. 

Aging is one reason why your spark plugs could go bad. With time, the plug’s knobs on the end wear out due to sparking. A bike that detonates gas too late or too early means that all the back pressure builds up on the spark plug.

It’s recommended to replace the spark plug every five years. Fortunately, they are simple and affordable to replace. 

Plastic Maintenance

Your dirt bike comes with fenders, mudguards, and side paneling. All these plastic parts help to protect your bike from debris and dirt. These plastics also come in handy in case of a crash. The last thing you want is faded or dull-looking plastics on your bike.

It’s critical to clean the plastic regularly and keep them in top shape to prevent them from deteriorating. Sometimes you may need to get plastic repair if you break the fender or shroud while you are at the track. 

The simplest way is to stitch up the plastic by drilling some holes on both sides of the crack and running zip-ties across. You’ll need to drill a hole at the end of the crack to ensure the cf an inch apart. It’s an easy and quick way to fix the repairs while on track. 

Tire Maintenance

Dirt bike tires have an inner tube that sits inside and holds air to keep the tire attached to the rim and inflated. The tire pressure ranges from 8=18 psi, that’s because some types of terrain and riding need less or more tire pressure.

One essential thing you need to do is to check your dirt bike’s tire pressure. The best way to check for pressure is to use a pressure tire gauge. Monitor the pressure at the trail or track and not at home. If you notice that your dirt bike tire doesn’t have the right pressure, you need to use a bike tire pump to hand pump. 

Dirt Bike Maintenance Schedule

Having a dirt bike maintenance schedule is essential as it helps you keep track of areas you may have overlooked. A good maintenance schedule needs to include washing, inspection, and lubrication. It should also involve cleaning the air filter, changing the engine oil, checking tire pressure, among other things. 

Conclusion

2-stroke dirt bike maintenance is simple. All you need is to check the owner’s manual on the maintenance schedule to follow. The above tips will help you keep your dirt bike in top condition and ensure you don’t have to spend too much money replacing expensive parts.

How Does a UTV Charge the Battery? Testing, Jumping, & Upgrades

How Does a UTV Charge the Battery?

One of the most common problems with UTVs and offroad vehicles that would keep them from starting is a battery issue. Over the years my wife and I have tried out a few different types of off-road vehicles and learned very quickly that one of the main maintenance issues is keeping the battery charged.

So How does a UTV charge the battery?

A UTV charges the battery using a system consisting of :

  • A Stator
  • A Rotor
  • And a Regulator Rectifier

It is basically a set of magnets moving past a copper wire array creating an electromagnetic field that generates electricity.

How the Stator/Rotor works:

The stator and rotor work similarly to an alternator except that they are built into the inside of the engine casing. The stator is disc-shaped with iron core outer spokes that are wrapped in copper wire and is stationary.

The rotor is an array of magnets built-in to the flywheel. As the engine crankshaft turns the flywheel, the magnets of the rotor spin around the stator’s spokes of copper wire coils and generate an electric alternating current.

Regulator Rectifier:

That alternating current (AC voltage) is pushed to a Regulator Rectifier. The rectifier converts the AC energy into direct current (DC Voltage) so that it can power your battery and other electronic components like your lights, ignition, and other electronics. The regulator keeps the DC voltage within its required range of 13.8-14.5 volts for safe operation.

Higher RPM’s Charge: 

Because the stator (or ‘magneto system’ as it’s sometimes referred to) is in a 1:1 ratio with the crankshaft, the charging system does not do a very good job at lower RPMs like at idle. Your UTV isn’t charging/maintaining the battery while it’s just sitting there running, only while you are out driving getting the RPMs higher.

Stator instead of Alternator: 

The alternator in your car or truck works in a different ratio than 1:1 because it uses pulleys and belts which give it the ability to push out a lot more electricity. Alternators need airflow and do not operate well with water or debris so that’s why your UTV has a fully encased stator instead.

Battery Drainage:

 Almost any battery that is left plugged into its intended device (even if it’s not being used) will slowly drain over time. Since you use your car/truck on a regular basis, it’s constantly charging itself but as most UTV owners park their Side by Sides for long periods of time the battery is slowly drained.

Check out our recommend trickle charging solutions further down this article.

Do Side by Sides/UTVs Have Alternators?

Most UTVs do not have an alternator as they take advantage of the stator system described above but there is always that one kid in class that just doesn’t fit in.

Enter the Roxor by Mahindra. This Jeep-looking vehicle has multiple reasons that make me scratch my head and ask: “How is this still a side by side?” but one of the main ones is the power plant. 

Long story short, to be classified as a UTV or Side by Side the engine has to be less than a 1000CCs and the Roxor is using a four-cylinder, 2500cc, turbocharged diesel. Because of this more automotive-style power plant, the Roxor has an alternator. Okay, so there’s not just one odd one out as a few of the diesel-option UTVs are also using alternators.

I believe that the reason for the stator vs the alternator in most UTVs is that Side by Sides adapt a lot of technology from quads and motorcycles as opposed to sand rails or 4x4s and motorcycle-style engines have stators where most larger four-wheel drives have alternators.

Examples of UTV’s with Alternators:

  • Mahindra Roxor Turbo Diesel 
  • John Deere GATOR 825i Gas & UTV Gator Xuv 855D Diesel
  • Kubota RTV-X900, RTV-X1100C, RTV-X1120, RTV-X1140 Diesel 
  • Caterpillar CUV102D & CUV105D  Diesel 

To replace an alternator can be about $70+, but if you want to convert from a stator to an alternator, it can cost around $600 – $2,300 for an alternator kit depending on your UTV Make and Model,

If you have a Polaris RZR and want an alternator there are a couple of companies that make an alternator add-on kit for $2,300. Here is a link to one such kit on Amazon.

Side by Side Battery Charger

I highly recommend getting a trickle charger for your UTV during the offseason. Anytime you know you’re going to park your side by side for 30 days or longer you need to put it on a maintenance charge.

No matter what charger you use, you don’t want to exceed a 2 amp charge. Most automotive battery chargers have a 2/10/50 setting selector so you could just use what you may already have in the garage.

The ideal setup is a battery charger that puts out a small number of amps, is always connected via a quick connect harness, and has built-in electronics that charge the battery only when it is necessary avoiding overcharge.

I recommend the Battery Tender Junior, click here to go see one on Amazon.

Another great option would be the NOCO Genius G3500.

Installing a Second Battery on a UTV

So you have a UTV and don’t want just the stock feel? You’re wanting to add a few light bars, a winch, and a stereo that shakes the ground beneath you? Well, I’m guessing after about one aftermarket install you will start to notice the drain on your electrical system.

Stators just don’t put out as much electricity as alternators, period. So one way to get around battery drain from too many accessories being used (especially while parked) is to install a second battery.

The battery itself will be in the $50 – $200 range and you will want to mount it near the existing primary battery. I recommend getting a match to your existing battery, preferably AGM deep cycle and not lead-acid. (In the event of a rollover, I don’t want a lead-acid battery in my UTV.) A great option for both batteries would be the Odyssey PC925 at around $185. Click here to get one on Amazon.

To really get the most out of having two batteries you will want to install a smart battery isolator. A company called TrueAm creates smart isolators that act as a bridge between the two batteries and your UTV.

When the UTV is running and the charging system reaches 13.4 volts the True Smart Battery Isolator kicks in and connects the two batteries so that they can both charge together. The True unit has a blue LED that will light up to show this is happening.

When the voltage drops below 12.9 volts the True isolator separates the two batteries preventing your primary ‘start’ battery from being drained by accessories powered by the second battery.

TrueAm sells a full kit that includes the smart isolator, all necessary install cables, and a voltmeter gauge that shows the current voltage of both batteries for $130. Check it out on Amazon by clicking here.

Another dual battery option is a kit from a company called Genesis Offroad. Their kit includes everything you need including a battery, a smart isolator, and all the necessary wiring for $339. The requirements of this kit are that you have a Polaris RZR 900 or 1000 that is 2014 or newer and you already have a non-stock battery like an Odyssey PC925 or the XS Power PS550.

If you need to add switches for all those new electrical accessories and also want somewhere to install that new voltmeter into your dash, then you may want to consider adding a switch panel like this one also on Amazon for $40. 

How to Jump a UTV/RZR Battery

The first rule of UTV battery jumping is we do not jump from a car or truck. And the second rule of UTV battery jumping is that we do NOT use a car or truck to jump from. It’s that important… so don’t do it.

Using a regular vehicle for the jump could really mess up the UTVs battery and/or electrical system. (If you have absolutely no other choice than to use a car, then follow the instructions below but do NOT start the car which is step 6)

Two major safety notes:

  • Creating sparks at a battery post can cause an explosion. Batteries not working properly can emit dangerous hydrogen gas.
  • During the jumper cable installation, make sure you do not let the cables touch each other as this creates a short circuit and can damage the battery. Also, the sparks can ignite any flammable sources.

Steps for Jump-Starting a UTV from Another UTV/ATV

  1. Park the good battery vehicle as close as possible to make the connection.
  2. Hook a red jumper cable to the dead batteries positive terminal.
  3. Hook the other side of that red jumper cable to the good batteries positive terminal.
  4. Hook the black jumper cable to the good batteries negative terminal.
  5. Now attach the other end of that black jumper cable to a good grounding point. (do not hook it to the dead batteries negative post as sparks could cause a hydrogen gas explosion)
  6. Start the engine of the good battery vehicle and get the RPMs high enough for the charging system to provide power.
  7. Now start the dead battery UTV.
  8. Unhook the cables in reverse order for safety. (Step 5, then 4,3,2)

A very safe and somewhat convenient option is a portable jump starter.

Not that different from a portable power bank for your cell phone, a portable jump starter is just a small battery that comes with accessories like cables with alligator clips to hook up to a dead battery and other optional cables to charge smaller devices that utilize USB cables.

Click here for a great jump starter by NOCO for $100 that can jump-start a battery 20 times on a single charge.

Can’t reach the battery terminals very easily for the emergency jump start? A company called UTV Stereo has a jump post that is like an extension cord for your battery terminals. Check it out here.

If a killer sound system is your thing I highly recommend you check out UTV Stereo’s website as that is their specialty.

How to Test a UTV Charging System

First, check the battery by hooking up a multimeter to it to ensure that you’re between 12.5 and 13.5 volts.

You can do a load test by simply hooking up a load tester to the terminals to simulate a load on the battery. With this test, you don’t want the battery to drop below 10 volts. If the battery can’t handle a load, it’s probably time to replace it.

Another way to do this test would be to hook up the multimeter to the battery and while checking voltage start your UTV. Make sure you watch the display on the multimeter while it’s cranking to see what the lowest voltage it drops to is and again you don’t want it to drop to 10 volts or lower.

To perform a system charging test leave your multimeter hooked up to the battery and start your UTV. You will have to rev the engine up to 5,000 RPMs and at that point, the meter should read between 13.8 volts and 15 volts DC.

If the volts don’t increase very much on this test it’s okay, it just means the rectifier regulator is doing its job regulating the amount of voltage put back into the battery.

Another good test of your UTV’s electrical system is called a parasitic amperage draw. It measures the amount of current that is leaving the battery when the machine is in the ‘off’ state.

To perform this test you have to unhook your battery’s negative cable and put your multimeter ‘in series’ by connecting the leads from the multimeter to the black cable you just unhooked from the negative terminal and the other multimeter lead to the negative terminal of the battery. If your eyes have just gone crossed, see the picture below.

The positive lead on your multimeter needs to be connected to the fused side of the multimeter and switch the meter to measure amps DC. With the UTV off you don’t want to be registering more than 8 to 10 milliamps.

If you are having larger draw numbers then you can start to unhook any potential aftermarket accessories or just remove their fuses to see what may be causing that draw.

A word of caution, while you have your multimeter hooked up in series to your UTV, do NOT start the UTV or it will damage the multimeter.

Charging Tips

  • Make sure battery connections are tight.
  • Keep the terminals clean with a baking soda and water mix.
  • Keep the battery on a trickle or maintenance charger.
  • Don’t charge using any more than 2 amps

UTV Transmission Types – Belt vs Shaft & Non-Belt Options

The Continuously Variable Transmission (or Belt option)

The most common type of UTV transmission is the Continuously Variable Transmission or CVT. The continuously variable transmission is a system of pulleys and a belt that has been around for a very long time. The CVT has a few different nicknames such as the shiftless transmission, single-speed transmission, stepless transmission, pulley transmission, or the ‘twist-and-go’ transmission.

When I think of CVTs and centrifugal clutches I think of snowmobiles. They are one of those rides you can hop on and just twist the throttle and go with no real worry of shifting. The same is true for UTVs with CVTs. As you start to apply the gas pedal, the engine RPMs get higher; meaning that everything starts spinning faster. There are two pulleys inside the CVT and each pulley can essentially pinch or release a belt using a system of weights and/or springs.

When you start a UTV with a CVT and have it just sitting at idle, the drive pulley is not pinching the belt so no power is distributed down to the ground. As you give the UTV some gas the drive pulley is spun fast enough to start pinching the belt and the power is transferred to the driven pulley. Both pulleys have an inner valley that the belt can ride up and down in to effectively change the gear ratio.

This can be thought of like changing the gears on a mountain bike. You have different size sprockets on the front and back that you can switch between as you drive to create different gear ratios to achieve higher speeds.

What Side by Sides/UTVs are Belt Driven?

Here is a list of UTVs that come with a Continuously Variable Transmission that utilizes a belt system:

  • Polaris RZR series (Polaris calls theirs a PVT)
  • Polaris RANGER series
  • Polaris GENERAL series
  • Can-am Defender series
  • Can-am Maverick series
  • Can-am Commander series
  • Yamaha Wolverine series (Yamaha calls theirs an Utramatic CVT)
  • Yamaha Viking series
  • Kawasaki TERYX4 series
  • Kawasaki MULE series
  • HISUN STRIKE
  • Arctic Cat WILDCAT series
  • Arctic Cat HAVOC series
  • Arctic Cat PROWLER series
  • Intimidator (all models & series)
  • Massimo 
  • KYMCO UXV series
  • ODES RAVAGER LT ZEUSi
  • ODES DOMINATOR X2
  • Bobcat 3400 & 3400XL
  • John Deere Gators
  • Mahindra mPact series
  • Mahindra Retriever series
  • Kioti Mechron series

What Side by Sides/UTVs are NOT belt driven?

The CVT is not the only transmission option for UTVs, just the most popular. Some UTVs are electric models that are more of a direct drive system and some have a more automotive type automatic or manual transmission. Some of the newer performance UTVs have a steering wheel paddle shift option that works in conjunction with an onboard computer to let you shift up and down the gears without the need of a clutch pedal. Some utility UTVs come with a Hydrostatic transmission that utilizes shafts, plates, and hydraulic oil. 

Here is a list of UTV models that are going outside of the CVT mold:

  • Yamaha YXZ1000R (manual foot clutch, 5-speed)
  • Yamaha YXZ1000R SS (Sport Shift, paddle shift with auto clutch, 5-speed)
  • Honda Talon Series (DCT [dual-clutch transmission], six-speed, AT/MT modes, paddle shifting)
  • Honda Pioneer 1000 (six-speed, fully automatic, DCT [dual-clutch transmission])
  • Honda Pioneer 700 (three-speed automatic with hydraulic torque converter)
  • Honda Pioneer 500 (five-speed automatic with AT/MT modes with paddle shifting)
  • Mahindra Ruxor (five-speed manual or 6-speed hydraulic-actuated automatic)
  • Polaris Ranger EV (electric vehicle with direct drive low noise gears)
  • Polaris Brutus (Hydrostatic transmission)
  • Bobcat 3600 and 3650  (Hydrostatic transmission, single 2-speed hydraulic motor)
  • Kubota RTV-500, X900, X1120D, X1100C, X1140 (Hydrostatic transmission)

The Hydrostatic Transmission (a Non-Belt Option)

The hydrostatic transmission is a fluid power system with infinitely variable control independent of engine speed. In this scenario, the UTV engine powers a hydraulic pump called an axial piston pump that has a handful of pistons in a circular array sitting on a plate. When the operator uses the drive pedal the plate is rotated in one direction and creates a flow of hydraulic fluid to the drivetrain. This control of fluid pressure is what gives you control of powering the vehicle forwards. When you let off the pedal the machine comes to a stop much like a tractor does. When the rider wants to reverse direction that plate is rotated in the opposite direction creating an opposite flow of hydraulic fluid effectively backing up the vehicle. The hydraulic oil is commonly in a closed loop oil circuit so it creates a very low maintenance driveline solution.

Belt driven CVT vs Hydrostatic

If you’re planning on hauling a lot of heavy loads, then hydrostatic is the way to go as it is sturdier than the belt.

If horsepower and speed is your thing, then the belt is the way to go.

What Side by Sides/UTVs are Shaft Driven?

We see this question being asked and feel like we need to clarify what shaft driven means. Shaft drive is usually referring to the drivetrain more so than the inner workings of the transmission itself.

For instance, when comparing a Polaris Ranger XP 900 to a Honda Pioneer 1000 they are both listed as shaft driven but the Polaris has a CVT transmission and the Honda has a six-speed automatic.

So shaft driven is usually referring to a drive shaft or axels coming off the transmission giving power to the front and/or back wheels.

Best UTV Drive Belt

Which UTV comes with the best belt? 

Yamaha offers a standard Factory 10-year belt warranty on its 2019 Side by Side models with the exclusive Ultramatic Automatic Transmission covering CVT Belt that is defective due to faulty workmanship or material from the factory. Click this link for more specifics. 

Which aftermarket belt is the best?

Here are some non-OEM options to check out:

  • Gates G-Force Belts (800+ four star+ reviews on [sherpa id=”b63f8e18″] $35 – $75)
  • The EPI Severe Duty Belt ($100 range on [sherpa id=”dc3ee65a”] )
  • [sherpa id=”dc9ab899″] (claims to be 4x stronger $140 – $180)

UTV CVT Maintenance & Tips

Using Low Range

Always shift into low gear for any of the following conditions:

  • Driving in heavy terrain or over obstacles
  • Loading the UTV onto/off of a trailer
  • Towing heavy loads
  • Driving frequently at low RPMs

Break-In Strategies: (0-50 Miles)

Allowing a proper CVT Belt break-in is what can really extend the life of the belt. During Break-In time (varies per manufacturer) it’s suggested to be as smooth as possible when operating the throttle. 

  • Don’t mash the gas pedal at low speeds or hold an open throttle for at least the first 10 minutes of driving.
  • Don’t run at the same throttle for more than 10 seconds. Instead, vary your speeds consistently for the 1st 30-50 miles. 
  • Stop often and let the engine cool off (heat cycle) some suggest every 15 minutes.
  • Avoid hauling heavy loads during these essential first miles. 

CVT belts break or wear in extreme use or driving too slow in high-range.

Extreme heat is one of the top contributors to breakage so always keep belt-cooling in mind, meaning keep your filter clean and let your ride cool off every now and again.

On average, most UTV owners don’t have to worry about replacing their CVT Belt for 3,000 – 10,000 miles as long as they follow their Owner’s Manual Guidelines and follow proper “Break-In” Strategies.

Belt Problems

 For recurring belt problems when the CVT belt life is less than 1000 miles:

  • Verify clutch is working properly and clear any debris
  • Replace belt with an extreme-duty belt
  • Avoid using high RPM/gears when tires are stuck in mud/sand or when loading/ unloading your vehicle.
  • Too much mud and water can be harmful.
  • Make sure you stay within the manufacturer’s specifications. 
  • Replacement CVT Belt is too long.
  • Verify factory vents are not blocked. 
  • Adding extra weight to the vehicle without changing how the clutch operates can make extra wear and tear on your CVT Belt.
  • Oversized tires (3” more than stock), adding a lift kit, gear reduction or other added performance features without adjusting your clutch.

Tips

Tune, calibrate and adjust your clutch with different springs and weights to adapt to the different types of driving conditions. 

Generally speaking, the more horsepower you have the more clutch weight you’ll want to increase or go steeper on the helix angle depending on your particular set-up.

CVT Upgrades & Solutions

Duraclutch is a company that offers a product by the same name that is essentially a pair of upgraded pulleys and a belt for your CVT. The Duraclutch kit comes with a Drive/Primary Clutch, a Driven/Secondary Clutch, and a new and improved belt designed specifically for their system that comes with a 5,000 mile one year warranty.

The Duraclutch helps eliminate jerky transitions, provides engine braking for downhill control, and can last as long as 10,000 miles or more. The kits are available for select models of Polaris RZR, Ranger, and General UTVs and cost between $1200 – $1900.

If you are into rock climbing or slow technical riding, Duraclutch boasts that this is one place you will really fall in love with their product.

EPI offers a range of clutch upgrade kits to adapt from high-performance to trail riding, to hauling heavy loads, or even oversized tires and muddy/sandy conditions. They range from about $180-$350 per clutch kit.

They also offer an EPI Severe Duty Belt if you’re needing one of the Best CVT Belts on the market, and most EPI products come with a 1-year warranty.

Dirty Dog Performance offers individual springs for $25 all the way up to a DDP Ultimate package for $1060. Their clutch kit comes as a well-calculated bolt-on system that can be adjusted and sheaves are included.

Keeping a spare belt on board

If you are concerned about burning through belts far away from home or camp then keeping an extra one on-board might be an answer for you.

Hardline offers belt mount clips that let you mount a spare belt to a bar on your UTV for $40. (Picture Above) Click here to view on Amazon.

How to change your CVT Belt

Here is a great 3-minute YouTube video demonstrating how to change the CVT belt on a UTV.

In Summary

The majority of UVT’s on the market have a CVT Belt and will hold up for many years. Yes, some people ride their side by sides hard and they break them right away, but for most UVT owners it isn’t a constant issue and they get thousands of miles out of them.

Even if you do break one they usually cost under a $100 and can switch out in a matter of minutes. Being equipped with a CVT really doesn’t have to steer you away from the experience of owning one of these off-road vehicles. Learning how to properly operate a UTV ahead of time can give you the advantage of a longer-lasting belt.

The real reason to not consider a UTV with a CVT is if you were wanting a sport shifting or a manual shifting option. That or you are shopping for a utility UTV and could benefit from hydraulics… not because you are afraid of burning up belts.

Why Are UTVs Limited to 1000cc? | Comparison Guide of 100+ UTVs

So maybe like me, and you like the nuts and bolts of off-road machines and were wondering what all the different engine size options were in Side by Side vehicles. After a little research, I quickly realized that a lot of side by side manufacturers were pushing their engines right up to a 1000cc limit.

So why are UTVs limited to 1000cc? UTVs are limited to 1000cc because the Recreational Off-Highway Vehicle Association defined the vehicle to meet certain restrictions so that state and federal agencies can enforce land access, registration, and tax laws. Because of these guidelines put in place by the ROHVA, race associations have also adopted the engine size limit to stay within their definition.

To further explain this limit we have to understand what these agencies define a UTV or ROV as.

What is an ROV and How is it Defined?

So real quick, the acronym ROV stands for Recreational Off-highway Vehicle and is commonly interchanged with terms like UTV, Utility Terrain Vehicle, Utility Task Vehicle, Side by Side, SxS, MOHUV, multipurpose off-highway utility vehicle and yes, these are all the same vehicle class. They are just different names for the same machine.

The ROHVA defines an ROV as a vehicle meeting almost ALL of these specs:

  • Designed for off-highway use
  • 4 or more tires
  • Steering wheel
  • Non-straddle seating
  • Seat belts
  • Roll over protective structure
  • Max Speed greater than 30Mph
  • Less than 80 inches in width
  • Engine displacement less than 1,000cc
  • 17 character VIN or PIN

A UTV manufacturing company could technically have a larger engine in one of their side by sides but then it would possibly be placed in a whole new class of Off-Highway Vehicle. In most states, the next class up would be the dune buggy and rock crawler class.

Which Side by Sides are 1000cc?

We took some time diving into the top Side by Side manufactures and found over 110 different models for you to compare some specs on. Most of these stay around the 1000cc limit or are a little under. However, we did find some that are larger than the 1000cc and are still considered UTV’s.

1000cc UTV Comparison Guide

Yamaha 1000cc side by side

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*3rd party horsepower stats

Honda 1000cc side by side

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*3rd party horsepower stats

Can-am 1000cc side by side

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Polaris 1000cc side by side

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Kawasaki 1000cc side by side

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Arctic Cat (Textron) 1000cc side by side

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*3rd party pricing information

Hisun 1000cc side by side

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*3rd party horsepower stats

Coleman 1000cc UTV

Coleman’s largest UTV engine is an 800 cc engine. 

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Roxor Mahindra (Jeep) 1000cc UTV

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Massimo 1000cc UTV

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Odes 1000cc UTV

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*3rd party horsepower stats

Komodo 1000cc side by side

*Chironex Motorsports Inc. is no longer in business*

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Comparing MSRP – Here are some Tips

The above Pricing table shows the newest model years, specs and the MSRP for those units. The MSRP may not include destination fees or dealer fees and taxes.

However, if you were to go to the manufacturer’s website or walk into a dealership there’s a good chance the UTV company will be offering special rebates, low-interest rate financing options, additional warranty coverage or other dealer incentives.

Consider these when comparing the different UTV models.

Another thing to consider about this comparison data is that these are the newest possible side by sides you can get right now so this doesn’t take into account last year’s model or even the model before that that might still be brand new at your local dealership and might be a cheaper way to go.

So keep those things in mind when price shopping.

Now the Real Question: Does Having the 1000cc Engine Limit Lessen my Off-Road Experience? 

The Quick answer: No not really! See, the Performance of these smaller sized engines pack a lot of punch! The High-performance UTV’s have max speeds of 85 mph and considering they only weigh around 1450 – 1850 lbs they really do get up and go!  Especially on dirt, sand, hills, and trails going 80 mph can be a pretty intense experience considering the terrain.  

Now to elaborate,  it really does depend on what you are used to driving, and how you are using the off-road vehicle! Are you an experienced ATV rider or have you had the pleasure of driving a high-performance dune buggy or rock-climbing rig? 

Plain and simple if you are used to driving a larger machine with a bigger engine and pushing the pedal to the medal then you might want to stay with the rides you are used to. So if you have a 5 seat long travel sand rail with Corvette LS1 engine, you might be a little disappointed with the switch.

However, you could test drive a side by side at a local dealership or if you are really getting serious you could always go to a jamboree which usually offers a variety of manufactures and they even provide and borrow you riding gear for your demo ride. Keep in mind you will have to sign some waivers and go through their safety ahead of time but it’s well worth it. 

If you are used to driving a smaller ATV in and out of 50” narrow trails then chances are you have seen some of these UTVs on some of the trails with you but keep in mind, not all of them fit. Most of the higher-performance side by sides are 64” inches or wider.

Of course, the pros of a UTV are that they carry more people and provide you with physical cover from the elements and provide extra safety measures like a roll cage and seat belts.

Here is a 4 wheeler example that compares to a 1000cc UTV with similar specs and of course there are plenty more examples out there.

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Fastest 1000cc UTV 

The Top three fastest UTVs are the: Yamaha YXZ1000R, Can-AM Maverick X3 Turbo, and the RZR XP Turbo S models have a top speed locked in at 80-85 mph. 

One aspect of UTV top speed is that the UTV manufactures actually have factory top speed limiters that govern these machines to stay under a set speed.

Having a speed-limiter helps protect the engine so that it lasts longer, and I’m sure having lower speed also helps reduces the severity of the crash and or chances of a crash.

Some people reprogram their speed limiters (ECU), like on the Yamaha YXZ1000R and can reach speeds of 100 mph or greater.

Cheapest 1000cc UTV

We did a lot of research, hours and hours and what we found might shock you…. (see 2nd place)

  • 1st Place: 
ModelMSRPCCHorse-
power		UTV
type
Engine
Hisun Strike 900$11,999924cc65*Sport4-Stroke V-Twin
Cylinder OHC

*3rd party pricing information

  • 2nd Place:  
 Model MSRP CCHorse-
power		 UTV
type
Engine
2020 Can-am
Maverick
Trail 1000		$13,399 976 cc 75hpSportRotax V-twin, liquid
cooled / Rotax Turbo-
charged 3-Cylinder
  • 3rd Place:  
ModelMSRPCCHorse-
power		UTV
type
Engine
2020 Kawasaki
MULE PRO-
DX-EPS		$14,09999324hpUtility4-stroke, 3-cylinder,
OHV, liquid-cooled,
diesel

1000cc Turbo Side by Side

If these bad boys weren’t already fast enough for you, the big names all have some UTVs with turbo offerings or add-ons.

  • Polaris offers 10 turbocharged models ranging from $21k all the way up to $31k
  • Can-am offers 15 turbocharged models ranging from $19k all the way up to $30k
  • Yahama offers a factory turbo kit that can be added to their 4 non-turbo SxS models ranging from $24.5k all the way up to $27.3k

 Yamaha GYTR has a new Turbo kit that, when installed by Yamaha dealers, retains the factory warranty! The $5499.99 kit includes a Garrett GT860RS Turbo and gives you a 60% increase in power.

Polaris UTVs with Turbos

ModelMSRPCCHorse-
power
Engine
2019 RZR XP 4 Turbo S$30,999925cc168hpProStar 4-Stroke DOHC Twin Cylinder with turbo
2019 RZR XP 4 Turbo Dynamix$28,499925cc168hpProStar 4-Stroke DOHC Twin Cylinder with turbo
2019 RZR XP 4 Turbo S Velocity$28,399925cc168hpProStar 4-Stroke DOHC Twin Cylinder with turbo
2019 RZR XP Turbo S$28,199925cc168hpProStar 4-Stroke DOHC Twin Cylinder with turbo
2019 RZR XP Turbo Dynamix$25,999925cc168hpProStar 4-Stroke DOHC Twin Cylinder with turbo
2019 RZR XP Turbo S Velocity$25,399925cc168hpProStar 4-Stroke DOHC Twin Cylinder with turbo
2019 RZR XP 4 Turbo LE$24,899925cc168hpProStar 4-Stroke DOHC Twin Cylinder with turbo
2019 RZR XP 4 Turbo$23,699925cc168hpProStar 4-Stroke DOHC Twin Cylinder with turbo
2019 RZR XP Turbo LE$21,999925cc168hpProStar 4-Stroke DOHC Twin Cylinder with turbo
2019 RZR XP Turbo$20,999925cc168hpProStar 4-Stroke DOHC Twin Cylinder with turbo

Can-am UTVs with Turbos

ModelMSRPCCHorse-
power
Engine
2020 Maverick X3 Turbo$18,999900cc120hpRotax ACE Turbocharged 3-cylinder engine, liquid cooled
2020 Maverick X3 DS Turbo R$20,999900cc172hpRotax ACE Turbocharged 3-cylinder engine, liquid cooled
2020 Maverick X3 RS Turbo R$22,499900cc172hpRotax ACE Turbocharged 3-cylinder engine, liquid cooled
2020 Maverick X3 X DS Turbo RR$24,999900cc195hpRotax ACE Turbocharged 3-cylinder engine, liquid cooled
2020 Maverick X3 X RS Turbo RR$27,499900cc195hpRotax ACE Turbocharged 3-cylinder engine, liquid cooled
2020 Maverick X3 X RC Turbo$23,999900cc120hpRotax ACE Turbocharged 3-cylinder engine, liquid cooled
2020 Maverick X3 X RC Turbo RR$29,599900cc195hpRotax ACE Turbocharged 3-cylinder engine, liquid cooled
2020 Maverick X3 X MR Turbo$23,199900cc120hpRotax ACE Turbocharged 3-cylinder engine, liquid cooled
2020 Maverick X3 X MR Turbo RR$26,399900cc195hpRotax ACE Turbocharged 3-cylinder engine, liquid cooled
2020 Maverick X3 Max Turbo$21,999900cc120hpRotax ACE Turbocharged 3-cylinder engine, liquid cooled
2020 Maverick X3 Max DS Turbo R$23,699900cc172hpRotax ACE Turbocharged 3-cylinder engine, liquid cooled
2020 Maverick X3 Max RS Turbo R$25,199900cc172hpRotax ACE Turbocharged 3-cylinder engine, liquid cooled
2020 Maverick X3 Max X DS Turbo RR$27,499900cc195hpRotax ACE Turbocharged 3-cylinder engine, liquid cooled
2020 Maverick X3 Max X RS Turbo RR$29,999900cc195hpRotax ACE Turbocharged 3-cylinder engine, liquid cooled
2020 Maverick X3 Max X MR Turbo RR$28,899900cc195hpRotax ACE Turbocharged 3-cylinder engine, liquid cooled

Yamaha UTVs with the GYTR Turbo add-on ($5499.99)

ModelMSRPCCHorse-
power
Engine
2019 YXZ1000R SE$26,099 with Turbo Kit998cc179hp*liquid-cooled DOHC inline three-cylinde; 12 valves
2019 YXZ1000R$24,499 with Turbo Kit998cc179hp*liquid-cooled DOHC inline three-cylinde; 12 valves
2019 YXZ1000R SS SE$26,099-$27,299 with Turbo Kit998cc179hp*liquid-cooled DOHC inline three-cylinde; 12 valves
2019 YXZ1000R SS$24,499 with Turbo Kit998cc179hp*liquid-cooled DOHC inline three-cylinde; 12 valves

UTV 1000cc Diesel

If you are looking for a diesel Side by Side with a 1000cc engine then here are the options:

ModelMSRPCCHorse-
power
Engine
2020 MULE PRO-DX EPS DIESEL $14,099993cc24hp4-stroke, 3-cylinder, OHV, liquid-cooled, diesel
2020 MULE PRO-DXT DIESEL $14,299993cc24hp4-stroke, 3-cylinder, OHV, liquid-cooled, diesel
2020 MULE PRO-DXT EPS DIESEL $15,099993cc24hp4-stroke, 3-cylinder, OHV, liquid-cooled, diesel
2019 Mahindra Roxor $15,999
2498cc 62hpTurbo Diesel 4-stroke, 4-cylinder
2019 Mahindra Roxor Nugent Edition$20,999 – $27,7482498cc 62hpTurbo Diesel 4-stroke, 4-cylinder
2019 Mahindra Roxor A/T$19,5992498cc 62hpTurbo Diesel 4-stroke, 4-cylinder
Massimo T-BOSS 1100LE$17,9991123cc24.8 HP Kubota Diesel D1105-E3B, 3-Cylinder
Massimo T-BOSS 1100D$15,9991123cc24.8 HP Kubota Diesel D1105-E3B, 3-Cylinder

Which 1000cc UTV are 50” wide?

Model MSRP CC Horse-
power 		UTV
type
Engine
2020 Can-am
Maverick
Trail 1000cc 		$13,399 976cc 75hpSportRotax V-twin, liquid
cooled / Rotax Turbo-
charged 3-Cylinder

The next closest 50″ UTV is the Polaris is RZR 900 at 875cc.

And in case you are wondering Yamaha currently does not have a 50″ trail-sized UTV. Yamaha’s 1000cc YXZ lineup is 64 inches and the Wolverine X2 comes in at 59.1 inches wide at 847cc.

What is the Best 1000cc Side by Side?

Best Value 1000cc UTV:

2020 Can-am Maverick Trail 1000cc I mean come on it’s got the 1000cc engine, it’s Turbocharged and is around $13k. That’s a lot of CCs for the money!

Best Performance 1000cc UTV:

Yamaha YXZ1000R Steering wheel paddle shifting 5 speed and ECU Reprogrammable Speed 100MPH

Best Utility Diesel 1000cc UTV: 

Kawasaki MULE PRO-DXT DIESEL Switches between 3 or 6 passenger seating in about a minute with a 1-ton towing capacity

Best Turbo 1000cc UTV: 

Yamaha YXZ1000R with a GT860RS Turbo Kit and with Dealer install it remains under Factory Warranty ($5499.99 kit)